Makeup: Our tips for a rebellious touch

A wind of freedom has been blowing on make-up for several seasons. No more mainstream trends and color prescriptions: “Having style, being yourself is more important than being made up according to established codes”, decipher the make-up artists in chorus. You can thus reinvent yourself every day and consider a multitude of looks just with mascara, eyeliner, blush and lipstick (basics that have become as essential as denim or a black jacket in a dressing room), we can decline in sporty, grunge or rock mode, the latter being a key point inspired by influential musicians...

Rebel, re-beautiful...

The black eye and the red mouth slump together to escape classic codes. Rather Debbie Harry or Felicity Hayward (the XL top, new MAC muse) than Marilyn Monroe! How ? By daring the little rebellious detail, by playing on the singularity, by bringing your personal touch without overdoing it. Like Staz Lindes, who loves clashes of color on her lips and nails and raising her gaze with a mischievous comma. Of Edie Campbell, who rubs her eyeliner and her pencil on her finger to “charcoalize” her eyes, of Cara Delevingne, who wears little makeup but cannot do without her black mascara which she applies outrageously to her eyelashes, or again from Kristen Stewart, who applies her red blush to the corners of her eyes. We could also mention the rock star PJ Harvey - source of inspiration for these muses and many backstage - whose blood red mouth is sometimes glam, sometimes punk, with an outline as if rubbed furiously with the back of the hand. (seen on the Vivienne Westwood summer 2017 fashion show).

In red(s) and black(s)

Black on the eyes, red on the cheeks, lips and nails: the idea is to have fun reinterpreting, diverting or shifting the great classics of make-up to make them fresher and less conventional.

We rub our lipstick on the temples as a blush, or we use a hybrid that does both like the Kiss & Blush Baby Doll, Yves Saint Laurent; Lip & Cheek Color, Smashbox; Lip & Cheek, Guerlain…

Use your cushion foundation not with a sponge but with a large kabuki brush to create a very fresh icy complexion: Cushion Encre de Peau, Yves Saint Laurent; Perfect Cushion Diorskin Forever, Dior; Teint Idole Ultra Cushion Longwear and High Coverage, Lancôme.

We use our eyeliner (waterproof) to tattoo two small lines in the corner of the eye, on the temple or on the ear: Scandaleyes Eye-Liner Gel Waterproof, Rimmel; Diorshow Pro Liner Waterproof, Dior; Definition Waterproof Eyeliner, Kiko.

On the color side, instead of black, we surf on all the smoky shades and false blacks (midnight blue, black red, metal gray…). And on the palate, we opt for fruity reds (cherry, plum, raspberry, blueberry, etc.), transparent or matte, to change from the eternal satiny red. Ditto for cheeks and nails: Lipstick Pur Mat, Nars; Matte Lipstick Lipstick, NYX Cosmetics; Color Riche Matte Lipstick, L'Oréal Paris. Don't forget to take care of the corners for a perfectly defined contour.

rock line

The doe's eye is updated. Eyeliner or pencil, it doesn't matter how exact the line is, as long as it has style. Those who do not have a steady hand can rejoice: a simple little line or triangle at the corner of the eye is enough to make the gaze swing. Make-up artists have redoubled their creativity by using pencils and liners in multiple ways, more in small graphic lines than in long classic lines: in triple eyeliner (3 small lines parallel to the corners of the eyes), in a square drawn under the eyebrow, glossed to give it a wet look, like at Antonio Marras. Ditto with mascara, which dares transgressions and figures of speech: you rub your brush on the eyelids to create a hatched print, you use its tip to prick the roots of the eyelashes, you apply it quickly without being afraid of smudges or fly paws. A look “that has experience” is precisely the desired effect.

Strict fresh complexion

The freshness of the make-up is paradoxically due to its matte finish: the complexion is even but imperceptible, with a slight luminous matte finish. Easy with the new velvety foundations that remain stunningly transparent: Velours de Teint Éclat Matissime Velvet, Givenchy; Air Mat Foundation, Bourjois; Ideal Matte Foundation, Estée Lauder; Infallible 24H Matte Foundation, L'Oréal Paris; Cashmere Foundation, Burberry. Apply a small amount to very hydrated skin with a preparatory oil (Essential Oils Prep + Prime, MAC; Remedies Concentrates, Bobbi Brown; Base oil for Photo Finish complexion, Smashbox), diffuse with a large brush and then apply a light touch on the highlights (cheekbones, chin, forehead, etc.) with a drop of oil or a pearly stick. FYI, the Chanel Matifying Paper is back.

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